Diamond Head Paddle Surfing Adventure

Today at Diamond head was a day like I have never seen before on the stand up paddle surfboard. You see it has been raining for three days like cats and dogs here in Hawaii. Their is so much rain the trees are losing their weaker branches so dont park under any big trees. Also, the ocean is pretty ditrty so if you are a lay down traditional surfer, have fun sitting in the merky water.

The days south shore looked like a toilet bowel after a long night at a dance club.. Sorry to be so graphic. The ala wai was full of debris and there was even a 4o ft sail boat stuck on the reef at Ala Moanu Bowls. So after looking at all the surf spots on the south shore I decided to paddle out at Diamond head. It was a solid three feet with 15 mile an hour winds. Nothing I havent stand up paddle surfed in before. You see if you ever see a guy stand up surfing in bad conditions it is probably me. I like getting out in the ocean in any type of weather. If it is windy and stormy it is great for training. You see today there was waves swirling in all directions, wind blowing down the beach and your occasional 5 ft rogue wave that would come in and blow you off the board.

What made today different than any other was the fact that I felt like the ocean could just gobble me up if it wanted to. You see it was heavy storm conditions with chop and set waves coming from every where. If you have ever seen a boat in a storm that is how i felt on my stand up. So after I proceded to make it over a couple of breaker in the channel I finally made it out to the outside where I proceeded to fall off about 3 times and finally make it to some smoother water to the left of cliffs. When I was standing there on my board and doing my usual routine in by conditions i call it the , 4 by 4 style, 4 low today for heave condintions . It sounds something like this in my head two strokes on the left, two on the right. The four by four four by four. I repeat it and start the process of lumbering through the waves and chop to get where I want to go with out falling off. You see stand up surfing in bad conditions take all the mental concentration and physical ability you have. It takes wave knowledge, balance, and mind stamina to keep you on the board.

Then I made it to a spot where a few good surfers were sitting. Didnt fall off in a while and the wind was easing. Just then here it came a five ft. wind swell. Boom, I jumped off my board and into the water...Held my paddle tight and got worked a little.. Then I came up..Damn my board was right in front of my face , upside down fins by my neck and another wave coming a split second later. Boom.. it hit the board, the board hit me and I got worked a little. So, I came up and by a grace of god or angels the board only cut me a little in the arm. No biggy but I felt very lucky. Sitting there on the board and looking around at the conondrum of waves around me I realized the Ocean is the the boss and I am just an employee. So, I took the next wave in surfed it all the way to the beach something that only happens occasionally on a traditional surfboard, but happens all the time on a stand up. Then since I am an employee of the ocean I decided to go back to work.. Ten minutes paddling with the wind down to the channel, then five minutes out the channel through the breakers. Proceding left to the line up and then butta bing butta boom...Another five footer rogue set breaks in front of me. I jump off go through the routine, and then take another wave in .. That was my surf trip took about one hour fifteen minutes.

My legs are sore, arm is cut, and mind in addicted to the sport. I am an offering you my aterman services as am employee of the ocean. Are rates are fair and our experiences are priceless. We have a great office and the nicest staff in the world. Are secretary the dolphin, and the turtle will be happy to assist you in making your reservations. I also am available for reservations for you custom stand up surfing tours or to plan your next eco adventure tourism trip.